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2017 GTi PP at VIR

bfury5

Go Kart Champion
Location
CT
That ship sailed, I've already slotted about 1/8 inch. I'll have to dig around and see how much more room I have, but I don't think it's enough room. I'm wondering if there's another camber plate that isn't too bad NVH wise that would get me to -3 with a little slotting.
From what I've heard Vorshlag make the quietest most reliable plate, but it's still metal on metal attachment to the car. You could consider making an isolator pad between the plate and the body out of a high durometer rubber or poly which could help dampen out some of the vibrations and harshness. On the highway my plates act fine, but you definitely get more tire noise through the cabin as a result of the direct metal contact.
 

DarkArrow

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Golf R
I don't think there is any added NVH from my spherical GC top plates. I think you are avoiding a myth, at least for this car and the available products.
I'd be lying if I said I didn't notice additional NVH from ground control camber plates. I could hear more tire noise and pot holes hit harder.

That being said, these changes are so minimal, if anyone is complaining about them, they're most likely installed wrong. Any passengers in my car would not notice a difference.
 

bfury5

Go Kart Champion
Location
CT
I'd be lying if I said I didn't notice additional NVH from ground control camber plates. I could hear more tire noise and pot holes hit harder.

That being said, these changes are so minimal, if anyone is complaining about them, they're most likely installed wrong. Any passengers in my car would not notice a difference.
I'd second that. If installed correctly they shouldn't make any *weird* noises, but there's absolutely a difference A to B with regards to road and tire noise, absolutely.
 

Mini7

Go Kart Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
Ok, so I went to .21 toe out front, 0 toe rear. When I made this change in GS trim, the car was stupid loose afterwards. With the APR springs, it is not stupid loose, but it is better than it was. Still need more front neg camber. I just don't think the Eurosport is going to get me there. I chose it because it would retain factory NVH. In the short term I might actually try a little toe out in the rear just for science.

So I'm going to install the Konis at some point and have the opportunity change camber plates or go a different route all together, but my goal is not to drastically increase NVH. Has anyone here been able to get -3 without adding a lot of NVH? The roads where I live are crap due to all the rain.
CSS is .5 or .1 degree of camber. I can’t remember right now. Let’s say .5 for now. SuperPro LCA is another .5 degree. That’s -1 degree for not additional NVH gain. Lowering more than 1/2-3/4” starts to impact roll centers and bump steer. That is another .25 to .5-degree. The other option is TTRS LCA and ball joints. Not sure on the camber gain there.

Outside of those mods, you start treading aftermarket waters to gain any more camber. No way around it. I’m at -2.5 and feel I need -3 for my NT01’s. With my intention to go to take off slicks -3.5 to -4 degree, hence my choice of Verkline LCA’s.

Currently maxed out at -2.5 on 018k SuperPro LCAs and Vorshlag plates at stock ride heigh. My RHS SuperPro swaybar end links has nibbled the sealant out of the inner fender Weld seam. I thought it may be my Ohlins swaybar mounting tab but it is the back of the balljoint that is making contact. No marks on the Ohlin tab after removal on Saturday. Assuming at full lock in parking lots. The SuperPro endlinks are not very svelte in profile. Another reason for me going to the Verkline LCAs. I can widen the track and stand up my Vorshlag camber plates to give me a little or wiggle room to the inner fender.

As for the camber Plate dreaded NVH. When Installed right you cant tell the difference on smooth roads. Expansion joints and potholes will come through as a solid thump/thwack. No getting around that. Rough concrete highway will sound like noisy R-comp tires (Yoko A048’s/NT01’s). It comes through as increased tire noise. Broken asphalt or concrete is noisy. I avoid potholes like the plague. Up North roads are shit because of the winter weather. If you crank up the volume, all you will feel are potholes and expansion joints. If you hear anything, play some good classic rock. 😂
AND CRANK UP THE VOLUME! There is no vibration. Some increased noise and some harshness when hitting potholes.

CSS swivels and TTRS LCAs and ball joints would be what I would investigate.
 
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GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
CSS is .5 or .1 degree of camber. I can’t remember right now. Let’s say .5 for now. SuperPro LCA is another .5 degree. That’s -1 degree for not additional NVH gain. Lowering more than 1/2-3/4” starts to impact roll centers and bump steer. That is another .25 to .5-degree. The other option is TTRS LCA and ball joints. Not sure on the camber gain there.

Outside of those mods, you start treading aftermarket waters to gain any more camber. No way around it. I’m at -2.5 and feel I need -3 for my NT01’s. With my intention to go to take off slicks -3.5 to -4 degree, hence my choice of Verkline LCA’s.

Currently maxed out at -2.5 on 018k SuperPro LCAs and Vorshlag plates at stock ride heigh. My RHS SuperPro swaybar end links has nibbled the sealant out of the inner fender Weld seam. I thought it may be my Ohlins swaybar mounting tab but it is the back of the balljoint that is making contact. No marks on the Ohlin tab after removal on Saturday. Assuming at full lock in parking lots. The SuperPro endlinks are not very svelte in profile. Another reason for me going to the Verkline LCAs. I can widen the track and stand up my Vorshlag camber plates to give me a little or wiggle room to the inner fender.

As for the camber Plate dreaded NVH. When Installed right you cant tell the difference on smooth roads. Expansion joints and potholes will come through as a solid thump/thwack. No getting around that. Rough concrete highway will sound like noisy R-comp tires (Yoko A048’s/NT01’s). It comes through as increased tire noise. Broken asphalt or concrete is noisy. I avoid potholes like the plague. Up North roads are shit because of the winter weather. If you crank up the volume, all you will feel are potholes and expansion joints. If you hear anything, play some good classic rock. 😂
AND CRANK UP THE VOLUME! There is no vibration. Some increased noise and some harshness when hitting potholes.

CSS swivels and TTRS LCAs and ball joints would be what I would investigate.
I think it'll be the LCA's if STH doesn't allow clutches in next change. I'll need a clutch sooner than later, so it'll be of to XSA, which will be fine, because I'll have far more latitude with mods.
 

victorofhavoc

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Kansas City
I've haven't tried it yet, but next time I have the suspension off I'm thinking of cutting a piece of mass loaded vinyl for the top of the strut. I get TONS of tire noise coming through on almost any slightly aged asphalt, and I think the mlv would help tune out those higher frequencies without adding almost any "squish". Will be a fun experiment after brake ducts, lol.
 

bfury5

Go Kart Champion
Location
CT
I think it'll be the LCA's if STH doesn't allow clutches in next change. I'll need a clutch sooner than later, so it'll be of to XSA, which will be fine, because I'll have far more latitude with mods.
Really hoping clutches go through, I'm planning my LSD for the winter and would hate to do all that work only to replace the OEM clutch with another OEM.
 

victorofhavoc

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Kansas City
Do they allow intercoolers in sth yet? I stopped autocrossing entirely in 2018, and my biggest driving factor was the classing. Seems there's always a poster child for each class and that's what they gear mods towards. Sth seems very fost and fist loving. I was forced into dsp initially because dsg needs a tune to lock you into 2nd gear, and then sth came about with intercooler limitations. For the money I was spending to be competitive in dsp I decided to just focus all of my efforts on track instead.
 

bfury5

Go Kart Champion
Location
CT
Do they allow intercoolers in sth yet? I stopped autocrossing entirely in 2018, and my biggest driving factor was the classing. Seems there's always a poster child for each class and that's what they gear mods towards. Sth seems very fost and fist loving. I was forced into dsp initially because dsg needs a tune to lock you into 2nd gear, and then sth came about with intercooler limitations. For the money I was spending to be competitive in dsp I decided to just focus all of my efforts on track instead.
They allow intercoolers in OEM locations, which isn't bad for this platform (no FMIC though). The manual GTI is in a pretty good spot with gearing though, my 2nd tops out around 75 which is more than fast enough for most courses. I think the FoST is fast but I haven't seen a competitive build of that or the FiST yet. Piehl won in his WRX and the Audi TT is a rocket as well, but heavier than our cars.

I agree on the money though, until this point I've tried to pick and choose parts to setup the car to be 85% competitive without breaking the bank, to see if the chassis would be a good fit for the class. So far so good, but the next mods (LSD + potentially clutch) alone will cost more than I've spent to date on other STH parts. There gets to a point though where you hit diminishing returns pretty quickly
 

victorofhavoc

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Kansas City
They allow intercoolers in OEM locations, which isn't bad for this platform (no FMIC though). The manual GTI is in a pretty good spot with gearing though, my 2nd tops out around 75 which is more than fast enough for most courses. I think the FoST is fast but I haven't seen a competitive build of that or the FiST yet. Piehl won in his WRX and the Audi TT is a rocket as well, but heavier than our cars.

I agree on the money though, until this point I've tried to pick and choose parts to setup the car to be 85% competitive without breaking the bank, to see if the chassis would be a good fit for the class. So far so good, but the next mods (LSD + potentially clutch) alone will cost more than I've spent to date on other STH parts. There gets to a point though where you hit diminishing returns pretty quickly
I thought the wrx couldn't play in sth? Guess I was wrong!

Yeah dsp was dumb on expense. I checked my spend rate and realized I paid 221$ per minute of seat time initially and an expected 72$ per min moving forward. On track I average around $5.5/min...
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
If they come through with clutches, it'll be awesome.

If not, XS will be fun, duel track/autocross friendly, but car will be uncompetitive and the pax sucks.

Until they figure it all out, talk me out of a little toe out in the rear.
 
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Mini7

Go Kart Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
Ohlins are out for a custom revalve. Compression curve is going to be tweaked as well. Apparently this can be done indepent of the high speed bump/rebound because of the DFV design. Kinda liking my decision to go wit Ohlins even more. Going to have more headroom built in for track rebound adjustments. The proof will be on the stopwatch around VIR.

Really curious how this is going to work out at VIR. Kinda reluctant to add the Verkline LCAs until if tested this mod. So I have an apples to apples comparison. Essentially a rear spring rate change and shock revalve + some toe out at the front. Checking my notes, I’m already at .16 degrees toe in at the rear. Will likely leave it there for now.

Going throw in a fresh set of plugs and coil-packs.
 

bfury5

Go Kart Champion
Location
CT
If they come through with clutches, it'll be awesome.

If not, XS will be fun, duel track/autocross friendly, but car will be uncompetitive and the pax sucks.

Until they figure it all out, talk me out of a little toe out in the rear.
Definitely won't talk you out of it. I think it's worth a try to get quicker rotation at AutoX
 

bfury5

Go Kart Champion
Location
CT
Ohlins are out for a custom revalve. Compression curve is going to be tweaked as well. Apparently this can be done indepent of the high speed bump/rebound because of the DFV design. Kinda liking my decision to go wit Ohlins even more. Going to have more headroom built in for track rebound adjustments. The proof will be on the stopwatch around VIR.
Will it be a low-speed compression / damping change only?
 
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